Categories

Information

    Manual maintenance outboard

    step 1: replace oil

    the first thing you want to happen to maintenance is to replace the engine oil. To do so, as the first oil from the block. The drain bolt is in a tube under the engine and can get you loose with a pipe wrench. Make sure you before los has been making a bucket to catch the oil and that the outboard motor in the horizontal position.
  • Do during the collapse the filler cap open so that faster and better empty runs. This in shown in the figure below. The collapse takes about 10 minutes to

    a quarter of an hour.
  • after the old oil from the engine block, it's time to fill it. For the right oil click here < > first Mount the drain bolt and fill the engine with the oil until this an oil level indication of something above the middle of the maximum and minimum level. Wait 10 minutes and measure again the level like this in the Middle than the top and if it is above the minimum level it is good enough. Please note when measuring you every time the measuring unit (the cap of the filling opening) cleaning met paper cloth and that you screw all the way in him. Once everything good you do the filler cap back on and is step 1 ready.

  • Tip: in case the oil white, then there is probably a leak in the cooling system! 

  • Step 2: replace spark plug outboard motor

  • The spark plug should be replaced each year. The costs are not, and this can prevent much misery. In case of poor combustion will this be harmful to the engine block.

  • Step 3: internal anode and thermostat

  • Remove the cover plate of the thermostat housing. Please note that here is an internal anode bolted. Verify that this is still very sufficient.
  • * Tip: the anode must be replaced preventively to the year!

  • Step 4: replace fuel filter outboard motor

  • This is replaced each year and does not need gecontto be roleerd. Replaced goes through the clamps loosen and there a new one in the same direction to mount. It is often given this advice to the year to do so. We advise every year of Power water sports i.v.m. dirt and water can cause a lot of displeasure after a winter when starting a new sailing season. 

  • Step 5: screw outboard motor

  • The screw should be inspected and cleaned every year. It is normal that there are parts of the paint missing on the edges and that the form is not completely fluent. Or do I need to consider for damage the screw. This can cause serious damage to the tailpiece, and eventually to the engine block. When a boat propeller is damaged, is not more balanced this out of balance, and running around. This gives extra vibration and vibrations that damage to the top of the engine may suffer. In addition, also suffering a damaging propeller to a deteriorated performance.
  • The drive shaft of the screw must be greased every year. This can be done by removing the screw. This continues to remove the cotter pin and then the first end nut. Note the many rings and the order of these. Before de as greased is should first be cleaned with paper towel. The oil to be used is < LUB11404 > click here. With one finger as mold release is sufficient. After this greased the screw back on. Please note that the screw you good to
  • mount.

    step 6: retrieve external anode los

  • the anodes should be replaced annually. The most common places sit above the screw (Trim Tab anode < click here for vb.) . On the bracket are also always anodes. This is the confirmation of the outboard motor to the boat.
  • step 7: scake
  • oil replace Bleeding goes through to loosen the 2 screws (Please take care that you have the right screw at the top. Make sure again that you have to put it in a container.
  • the easiest way is to use the special tailpiece refill set < MSPi2422 > click here. After filling the upper screw close again. For the correct tailpiece oil
  • > < click here.
    Tip: leave the old oil equally stand for 10 minutes and then check if there is water at the bottom. If Yes is oil seal piece and will need to be replaced. If no then it can be refilled.

  • step 8: impeller The impeller is annually checked and replaced every two years. To get to the impeller to come should the breech to be disassembled. Please note that In some cases the switch Rod must first be met. This may be behind the big rubber baptized. After you release it must have j(e) the engine into reverse and you can select Rod los bolts with a wrench. not quite losbouten because otherwise you lost it! Bout him just the switch Rod out can loose that vergenoeg.
  • after you have the switch Rod los can be bolted the street piece los and can you Street piece los. Note that you do not lose parts. With a bit of back and forth make you get the tail piece of the outboard motor, but do not force it!
  • get the top of the case by the bolts. Check the impeller for damage and if do not damage or 2 years is replace it. When replacing the axle should be cleaned with paper towel and again to be greased with < LUB11404 > click here. Please note that the impeller has a direction and that this view is mounted in the same way (note the curvature of the leaves).
  • the tailpiece consists of 2 pieces you can get loose by pulling them apart, pay attention back on any vans. Now you can at the impeller housing, and check it for damage such as cracks or dents. After it has been damaged, the enclosure to be replaced including gaskets.
  • a new impeller can be damaged by run dry. Therefore, when installing the binnenzijde of the impeller housing with a little fat to be greased. The impeller must be mounted in the pump movement.
  • Put the housing back on (tip: turn him there on the last piece) and bout this. Do the 2 parts of the tail piece back together. Now comes the tricky part where you need help. Namely the assembling the tail piece back to the engine. Put the engine in the first neutral. Do the tailpiece into the engine where you take care that the rods in the order as shown below.

  1. Push the tailpiece until that any select Rod through the hole at the top look like should go (this is true for some models). Go a little games to this into the hole and push on. Make it sure that the rod from the engine in the funnel. Now push on until you cannot go on. Now comes your Sidekick in action that is run by the engine slowly around quiet on the start cord while you push. If all is well you come now with push and you can him go fixed bolts.
  2. Put the engine into reverse and let your good impressions sidekick with a pair of pliers the rod until it stops if it is good hear/feel that this is good. If necessary, rotate the screw until it is properly switched. Now the switch Rod stuck again. Check before you the rubber caps back does the first weoperation the control rod by the engine in the 3 positions (forward, neutral and reverse) and slowly start to pull cord. The screw may not in neutral, in the forward and in reverse on the one hand the other way. Please note that for some models, the immobilizer bypass manually during this test. You do this by manually the following arrows on top of the starting mechanism to let each other.

step 9: external anode mount (engine block anodes)

Now can be mounted the new external anode

step 10: cooling and petrol pipes cleaning and check

place the click here > < flush clamp on the timesheets from the water inlet on the tailpiece and connect it to the convenient Quick closure on the tap water.
  • Start the engine without tank (or first run step 13). Check that the cooling Jet is clear and strong.
  • Put the outboard motor off again.
  • ControLearn the leadership around the engine for leaks (or is it moist), broken pipes need to be replaced.
    • step 11: carburetor cleaning

      do you clean The carburetor by using special carburetor cleaning click here > <

      step 12: fats

      Fat all visible moving parts click here < > and all grease fittings with a special vettang tools < > click here
    • step 13: new petrol

    • make sure you with new gasoline in the tanks does.
    • step 14: get rid of old gasoline hose

    • HAAL the petrol plug hose from the outboard motor and pump a few times until the old petrol from the snake.
    • Step 15: connect the motor to

    • Connect the engine to the petrol hose and pump the petrol on to the knijpbal hard again.
    • Step 16: start the engine and set him off

    • Adjust the idle speed, this can with the bolt to the carburetor. This is good if this is as low as possible without the engine stalls at switch, if the engine is warm.
    • Step 17: test

    • Tests whether the motor works as should.